Short answer: the campervan conversion steps in order are: photograph the van as it is, strip out, cut windows and vents, insulate, lay the floor, run the electrics, fit water and gas, build the furniture, finish the lining and trim, then shake down on the road. The rule underneath is simple: anything that goes behind a panel goes in before the panel.
Why the order matters
Almost every rework story we have heard, including ours, comes from doing a step too early. Lining a wall before the cable is behind it. Fitting a floor and then finding the water tank needs to sit lower. Cutting a window after the insulation is glued in. Just Kampers Insurance's insulation guide makes the same point: insulate at the very start of the conversion, and route wiring and pipes before you insulate, or you may have to strip the interior again.
The stages below are the same ones we use in Roam's build photo book, so if you photograph as you go, your photos line up with this guide.
Before you start: plan the layout
Draw the layout to scale before you buy anything. Measure the real load area, not the brochure figure: wheel arches, the bulkhead and the sliding door opening all steal space. Decide where the bed, kitchen, battery and water tank go, because those four fix almost everything else. Then plan your power: what you will run, for how long, and how you will charge. Our campervan electrics guide walks through that. Finally, set a budget per stage; the van conversion cost guide has realistic ranges.
Campervan conversion steps in order
1. Before
Photograph the empty van from every side, inside and out, and note the registration and VIN. You will want these later for insurance, for a sale, and possibly for the DVLA, whose motor caravan guidance asks for exterior photos from the front, both sides and rear with the plates visible, and a photo of the VIN plate. Check for rust and leaks now, while it is easy to see.
2. Strip out
Take out the ply lining, bulkhead if you are removing it, and any rubber mats. Clean the shell. Just Kampers Insurance advises removing all moisture, metal shards from window cutting, and oil or grease before insulating, and treating any rust you find. Fit sound deadening now if you are using foil-backed bitumen, since it must touch the panels directly.
3. Windows and vents
Cut and fit windows, a roof vent or fan, and any skylight. This is the messiest metalwork in the build, so do it before anything soft goes in. Hoover up every swarf fragment, as it rusts. If you plan to re-register as a motor caravan, place windows with the DVLA's requirements in mind (see below).
4. Insulation
Batten the floor, walls and ceiling, run cable conduit and pipe routes, then insulate. Camplify notes the floor, roof and side walls are the three big areas, and that the doors matter too. Fit the vapour barrier over the insulation if your material needs one. Our campervan insulation guide covers materials and method.
5. Floor
Lay the floor over its insulation: usually ply on battens, then your finish. Just Kampers Insurance suggests keeping floor battens level along the length and width and routing cables between them before laying insulation. Get it flat now, because every cabinet will be squared off it.
6. Electrics
First fix: run all 12V and any mains cables to where lights, sockets, fridge and heater will be, with slack and labels. Mount the battery, charger, DC-DC charger and fuse box. Size every cable for its load and length; our cable size calculator gives you the size, fuse and voltage drop. Second fix (connecting fittings) happens after the furniture is in.
7. Water and gas
Fit tanks, pump and pipework, then gas if you are having it. Just Kampers Insurance's gas guide notes the gas locker should be sealed from the living space and vent to the outside, and that you should fit a gas alarm. You can fit gas in your own van if you are competent, but a van that will be hired out needs a Gas Safe registered engineer. The relevant standard it cites is BS EN 1949:2021. We would have ours checked regardless.
8. Furniture
Build the bed, kitchen and storage, fixed to the van's structure, not just the floor. Leave access panels to the battery, fuse box, pump and tank. This is the longest stage for most people and where the most money can be saved by doing it yourself.
9. Finishing
Line the walls and ceiling, trim, worktops, second-fix electrics, curtains or blinds and soft furnishings. Test every circuit, check for leaks, and fit the smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
10. On the road
Weigh the van fully loaded at a public weighbridge, sort the insurance, and do a short shakedown trip close to home before a long one. Things rattle loose on the first few hundred miles. Our first campervan trip guide has a checklist.
Photograph every stage before you close it up, especially cable runs behind panels. In Roam, the build photo book sorts photos by build stage, day and place, and can be printed as a book. It is in the app now.
Order mistakes we see most
- Buying furniture before the electrics plan. The battery and fuse box need a home with ventilation and access, and that decides a cupboard.
- Lining before testing. Run a temporary test on each circuit and pipe before the panels go up. A loose crimp behind a finished wall is a whole evening.
- Forgetting the fridge and heater vents. Many fridges and heaters need air in and out, and some heaters need a hole through the floor. Plan these at the floor stage.
- No photos of hidden runs. Six months later you will want to know where that cable went.
- Skipping the weigh. Payload runs out faster than people expect once water, gas, battery and people are on board.
Thinking ahead for the DVLA
If you want your V5C changed to "motor caravan", the DVLA's guidance lists external features: two or more windows on at least one side of the main body (not counting cab door windows), a separate door into the living area, and a high-top or pop-top roof. Inside, it wants seats and a table, sleeping space, cooking and storage, all rigidly fixed. It also asks for dated photos of each feature. That affects stage 3, so read the GOV.UK guidance before you cut. Check before you apply, as it is updated. Our insurance and DVLA guide covers the rest.
Questions
What is the first step in a van conversion?
Plan the layout and power budget on paper, then photograph and strip out the van. The first physical work is windows and vents, because cutting metal comes before anything soft goes in.
Do you insulate or do electrics first?
Run cable routes and conduit before you insulate, then do the main electrical fit after the floor is down. That way cables sit behind the insulation and lining without being trapped in it.
When should I fit windows in a campervan?
Straight after the strip out, before insulation. Cutting later means pulling insulation back out and cleaning swarf off everything.
How long does each stage take?
It varies hugely by build. Confused.com's 2025 survey found the average whole conversion took about three months, with a third taking four to eleven months.