Short answer: a campervan registered as a motor caravan takes a Class 4 MOT, first due at three years old and then yearly. The test covers the road-going vehicle: brakes, steering, lights, tyres, suspension, body, seat belts, visibility and emissions. Gas, leisure electrics, water and damp are not part of it. Before you book, check lights, tyres, wipers, washers, horn, warning lights and that nothing loose in the back blocks the tester.
Which MOT class is a campervan?
This is the bit people get muddled, us included. The class depends on how your van is categorised, not just how heavy it is.
The GOV.UK MOT fees table lists a motor caravan as Class 4, first test at three years, with a maximum fee of £54.85. The MOT inspection manual's introduction says Class 4 covers "minibuses, motor caravans, dual purpose vehicles and ambulances up to 12 passenger seats", and motor caravans with 13 or more passenger seats go to Class 5. It does not give motor caravans their own weight limit.
Weight comes in for goods vehicles. GOV.UK puts a goods vehicle up to 3,000kg design gross weight in Class 4, and a petrol, diesel or hybrid goods vehicle from 3,000kg to 3,500kg in Class 7, with a maximum fee of £58.60. So if your self-build is still registered as a panel van and it is plated over 3,000kg, expect a Class 7 test, and not every test centre does Class 7. If it is registered as a motor caravan, it is Class 4.
| Your van | MOT class | Max fee (GOV.UK) |
|---|---|---|
| Registered as a motor caravan, up to 12 passenger seats | Class 4 | £54.85 |
| Still a goods vehicle (van), up to 3,000kg design gross weight | Class 4 | £54.85 |
| Still a goods vehicle, petrol, diesel or hybrid, 3,000kg to 3,500kg | Class 7 | £58.60 |
Your V5C shows the body type and your vehicle's plate (usually on the B pillar or under the bonnet) shows the design gross weight. If you are unsure, tell the test centre both when you book. The manual tells testers to decline a test where there is doubt about the vehicle's weight.
Fees were checked on 25 October 2026 and are maximums; many garages charge less.
What is tested on a campervan MOT
The MOT inspection manual for cars and light commercial vehicles is the tester's rule book, and it is public. Its sections are a good map of what gets looked at:
- Identification: number plates and the vehicle identification number (VIN).
- Brakes: condition, operation and performance, including the parking brake.
- Steering: the steering system and its components.
- Visibility: field of vision, glass, mirrors, wipers and washers.
- Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment: including the vehicle's wiring and battery.
- Axles, wheels, tyres and suspension: including tyre pressure monitoring where fitted.
- Body, structure and attachments: including the exhaust, bumpers, doors, seats and floor, and corrosion of structural parts.
- Other equipment: seat belts, airbags, horn, speedometer and the engine warning light among others.
- Nuisance: noise, exhaust emissions and fluid leaks.
For a converted van, the parts of the conversion that matter here are the ones that touch the road vehicle: any extra seats and their belts, anything bolted through the floor or body, windows you have fitted, and any wiring that interferes with the vehicle's own lights or battery. The manual also says that if a load or other items would stop a proper test, they have to be secured or removed. Clear access to the floor, seat belt anchorages and the spare wheel before you go.
What the MOT does not test
Read the manual's contents and you will not find the habitation side anywhere. It does not mention gas installations or the living accommodation. In practice that means the MOT is not checking:
- your LPG system, regulator, hoses or gas appliances
- your leisure battery, 230V hook-up, inverter or 12V leisure circuits
- fresh and waste water systems, pumps or tanks
- damp or water getting into the habitation area
- smoke and carbon monoxide alarms
- the fridge, heater, hob or furniture (beyond anything that affects seats, belts or structure)
Those are what a habitation check is for. The Camping and Caravanning Club describes it as an annual service of the water, gas, electrical and heating systems, with a check for damp and leaks. We go through it properly in our campervan servicing guide.
A pass certificate does not mean your gas is safe. If you have a gas system, get it checked by someone qualified to work on LPG in leisure vehicles.
Campervan MOT checklist: before you book
Most simple fails are things you can spot on the drive in ten minutes. This is the list we run through the week before. It is our own routine, not an official list, but every item lines up with a section of the manual.
Lights and electrics
- Headlights on dipped and main beam, sidelights, indicators (front, rear and side repeaters), hazards, brake lights, rear fog light, reversing light and number plate lights. A second person helps for brake lights.
- No dashboard warning lights left on, especially the engine light.
- Horn works.
Tyres and wheels
- Tread depth: the Highway Code says cars, light vans and light trailers need at least 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread, around the whole tyre.
- No cuts, bulges or cords showing, including on the inner sidewall.
- Pressures set to the manufacturer's figure for the load you carry. Campervans are often heavier than the base van, so use the loaded figure.
- Check the spare too if you carry one.
Visibility
- Windscreen chips or cracks in the driver's line of sight.
- Wipers clear the screen and the washers squirt. Top up the washer bottle.
- Mirrors present and secure.
Body, seats and belts
- Every seat belt clicks in, locks when tugged sharply and retracts.
- Seats are secure, including any rear seats you fitted.
- Doors open and close from inside and out.
- No sharp edges from body damage, and no obvious rust around sills and suspension mounts.
Under the bonnet and underneath
- No obvious fluid leaks on the ground where you park.
- Exhaust is secure and not blowing.
- Brake fluid at the right level.
On the day
- Number plates clean, legible and secure.
- Clear the cab, and secure or remove loose kit in the back so the tester can reach what they need.
- Bring the locking wheel nut key.
Timing, fees and fines
GOV.UK says the first MOT is due by the third anniversary of registration, then every year. You can take the test up to a month (minus a day) before your current certificate runs out and keep the same renewal date. Their example: if it expires on 15 May, the earliest you can go and keep that date is 16 April.
Driving without a valid MOT can bring a fine of up to £1,000. Rules can change, so check GOV.UK before you go.
We keep our MOT date, along with tax, insurance and service dates, in Roam's My garage, which sends a reminder before each one. That is in the app now. For registering your conversion as a motor caravan, see insurance and the DVLA.
Questions
Is a campervan MOT Class 4 or Class 7?
A van registered as a motor caravan is Class 4. A van still registered as a goods vehicle is Class 4 up to 3,000kg design gross weight and Class 7 from 3,000kg to 3,500kg, per GOV.UK.
Does the MOT check the gas in a motorhome?
No. The MOT inspection manual does not cover gas installations or the living area. That is what a habitation check is for.
Does the leisure battery affect the MOT?
The leisure system is not tested, but the manual does cover the vehicle's own wiring and battery. If your conversion wiring is loose or tied into the vehicle's circuits badly, a tester may pick it up.
How much does a motorhome MOT cost?
GOV.UK sets a maximum of £54.85 for Class 4 and £58.60 for Class 7, checked on 25 October 2026. Garages can charge less.